Penguin Cruise in Croatia
Trogir - South and North about
2 September 2017 to 16 September 2017
Summary
Yachts chartered: Bavaria 37 Cruiser
Bavaria 39 Cruiser
Sun Odyessy 42.2
Distance covered: 195.3 nm (week 1)
149.5 nm (week 2)
Crews: week 1 - 5 crew in each yacht
week 2 - 6 in each yacht except the Bavaria 39 Cruiser
WEEK ONE 02/09/2017 - 09/09/2017
Weather experienced was overcast on the first day, but then clear and sunny with light variable winds until Tuesday when a F3-4 Westerly set in until Thursday then the best sailing was experienced - a steady F4 gusting 5 South-Easterly helping the yachts to return to Trogir by Friday 17:00Hrs.
Day 1 (Saturday 02/09/2017)
All crew assembled at Dalmatia Charter offices Trogir ACI Marina. Access to the yachts was earlier than expected (15:00Hrs) and all yachts had refrigerators powered by solar panels and were already cool.
A couple of crew members had been in Trogir for a few days before and directed victualling operations and a full cruise meal out was planned for 19:00Hrs at a little bistro - “Jambos” - who now know and love Penguins!
Day 2 (Sunday 03/09/2017)
All 3 yachts slipped from the marina by 10:20Hrs with a target to overnight at BOL (BRAC island - just over 30nm away). Wind was very light and variable - sailed for only 40 minutes then motor sailed with lunch on the run. by 17:00 we had reached a suitable anchorage on the south coast of BRAC - Uvala Lucice - some 27 nm from Trogir. In the unoccupied bay there were chains laid on the sea bed to deter alfresco anchoring and a rib “kindly” came up and directed us to a restaurant’s moorings (2 available - so we rafted up two of our yachts) - moorings were free if you eat at the restaurant - but the restaurant was closed on Sundays! 850 HKR in cash for the night. Distance logged 24.2nm.
Day 3 (Monday 04/09/2017)
Dropped the moorings at Uvala Lucice before 09:00 and set out towards Sucuraj (far eastern end of HVAR island - some 35 nm away). Wind was even less this day but bright sunshine and gentle motoring past the fabled Duigi Rat beach of BRAC - heaving with tourists! Set off across the HVARSKI Kanal to a little bay called Vela Stiniva - lunch stop - swim - then motored on to Sucuraj - the small marina there was full except for one spot so we sailed out (wind now a 10Kt easterly) to a secluded bay Uvala Zidigove - a perfect anchorage for the night - very penguniesque! Distance logged 36.3nm.
Day 4 (Tuesday 05/09/2017)
Up anchor before 09:00 and with a 7Kt easterly and we sailed for 2 hours - around the mainland peninsular of Peljesac and port down the Peljeski Kanal towards Lumbarda - on the far eastern tip of KORCULA island. Lunch stop at Uvakla Kneza - a popular spot on the north coast of Korcula - lunch and swim for all crew and by 14:10 ready for the final run down the north coast of Korcula. Breeze backed round to north west and a great run down the coast past Korcula town with many wind surfers and kite surfers present. Navigated into Lumbarda marina where we practiced for the first time stern to mooring - complete with audience of Germans, Dutch and Croatians all offering advice . . .
We reserved spaces at this marina in advance after our experience at Sucuraj - costing us an extra 100HRK per yacht for the privilege! Marina charges were 1060HRK . A Dutch-skippered yacht managed to damage Katarina’s port side when mooring stern to - too fast, breaking off a stanchion complete with it’s deck fitting - the Dutch skipper admitted liability and Dalmatian Charter were informed - along with all documentary evidence available. Crews found very little in Lumbarda but a 90HRK taxi ride would take a crew of 6 to Korcula town, only 20 minutes away. Most crews eat out at Korcula that night. Distance logged 22.3nm.
Day 5 (Wednesday 06/09/2017)
A later start today 09:40Hrs before we cleared the marina at Lumbarda - towards Vela Luka - the far (west) end of Korcula island. Wind was light westerly so very little sailing attempted. Motored until lunchtime and anchored in a bay just to the east of Dugi Rat (not the same one as BRAC’s Duigi Rat!) Great swimming bay and lunch consumed by 14:40 before up anchor and motor on.
Just 30 minutes into the passage and Katarina (the Bavaria 37) suffered an engine failure. Quick check of the fuel lines and filters showed no problem - tried to start the engine again - no joy.
As instructed, commodore contacted Dalmatia Charter and discussed options - with Vela Luka more than 20 nm away and against the prevailing wind, Lumbarda, at only 15 nm downwind was the preferred option. Clearly with only 5 hours daylight remaining we should be able to make the 15nm run OK with a following breeze - which died to nothing! Towing slowed our progress to 3Kt average and we radioed ahead to Lumbarda harbour master to make them aware - they were happy for us to anchor overnight for free and wished us good luck. Dalmatia Charter arranged for an engineering sub-contractor to be on hand when we arrived. Some confusion over identifying where the engineer was and the marina staff shooing us away resulted in us anchoring in an adjoining bay and motoring ashore in the dinghy after dark to collect the engineer - who declared a terminal problem with the sail drive after inspection - only possible to repair in Trogir. Dalmatia Charter were informed and suggested that we sail Katarina back to Trogir for repair . . . .
Agreed that we would not sail at night but try for HVAR town on Thursday and Trogir on Friday if conditions permitted. Distance logged 31.8nm.
Day 6 (Thursday 07/09/2017)
Up anchor at 08:20Hrs - towed Katerina out to open water and were blessed! 12Kt South Easterly wind set in and we had a cracking sail all the way to HVAR town - lunch on the way - no stopping. Passed HVAR town by 17:00Hrs - Dalmatia Charter had suggested Vela Vira as a sheltered anchorage on the north side of HVAR island - only some 6nm further on. They had booked a restaurant there for us. Arrived at Vela Vira and by 19:15Hrs had all three yachts at anchor and being ferried ashore for one of the best meals we had had so far! Distance logged 49.4nm.
Day 7 (Friday 08/09/2017)
Awoke at anchor in Vela Vera 08:00 - a vicious squall hit us - DORKO dragged her anchor and covered PALMIZANA’s chain, KATARINA’s anchor and line ashore held her but the line ashore had tangled under her keel and she was dangerously close to the shoreline. Dorko and Palmizana untangled themselves and Palmizana made for more sea room until the squall passed. By 09:00 Palmizana had the tow in place to Katerina and all 3 yachts escaped the crowded anchorage without damage or loss. Phew!
12Kt wind from the south east and all yachts under full sail making good progress towards Trogir. By 12:00Hrs the wind had dropped (in the lee of BRAC island) and Katarina was struggling to keep up - eventually taken in tow at 14:00 and the remainder of the trip to Trogir completed uneventfully. By 16:30Hrs the Charter staff had taken over Katarina at the marina and moored her up. Dorko and Palmizana were re-fuelled and moored for the night. Another good meal out at JAMBOs! Distance logged 31.5nm.
Day 8 (Saturday 09/09/2017)
Crew changeover day. Katarina was cleared of all crew (except Alan - who was to remain for week 2 on Katarina) and taken for repair at 09:00. The S-drive was removed and replaced as well as two stanchions and a deck fitting for one of the stanchions by 13:00Hrs. Very impressive!
Some crew were staying on in Trogir but most flew out from Split airport during the day - new crew arrived either from a previous driving holiday in Croatia (the Percivals) or by flights from the UK. All crews finally assembled by 16:00Hrs and Katarina was handed back to us Penguins and underwent a thorough hand-over check - before accepting the yacht.
An all-crew meal out was undertaken (JAMBOs again!) and Donald Mclintock was presented with his skipper’s pennant.
WEEK 2 09/09/2017 - 16/09/2017
Weather experienced was overcast and a strong south eastern breeze - building to F7-8, gusting 9 by the end of Sunday. Monday ashore in Zirje island whilst 11cm of rain fell! The rest of the week was clear and sunny but with predominantly south easterly winds (one thunderstorm on Tuesday night trapped some crew in restaurants in Tribunj!)
Day 9 (Sunday 10/09/2017)
Charter manager warned of strong winds forecast and asked us to be gentle! 10:30Hrs all yachts were fully victualled up and set off towards Zirje (in the North). Weather was overcast but dry - wind fresh south easterly about F4-5. New crews on board so only genoa flown at 50%
Made good progress as the day unfolded - in excess of 7.0Kts boat speed and the wind increased to F8 with gusts to F9 but stayed luckily dry. Lunch on the move although by 15:00Hrs we were in Zirje harbour (Luka Muna) a quiet harbour - and the heavens opened! Distance logged 32.4nm.
Day 10 (Monday 11/09/2017)
The rain and thunderstorms continued throughout the day - so a day ashore was taken - crews discovered local ex-pats who said that they had had 5 months of no rain and constant sunshine up until today - 11mm of rain was recorded in 24 hours! Changed gas bottles in the evening - the first since day 1. A Slovakian crew (also storm - bound) were a choir and they sang a series of songs on the harbourside in the evening (between showers). Distance logged- nil!
Day 11 (Tuesday 12/09/2017)
Slipped from Luka Muna harbour (having paid for 2 night’s worth of moorings) at 08:40 towards Trubunj (on the mainland - a proper marina). Wind had moderated to Southerly 10Kts so full mainsail and reefed genoa set for 3 hours - practiced gybing and made a lunch stop at our furthest point north - OTOK MURTER. In the afternoon the wind strengthened to 12Kts and with full sail, we made for Tribunj - a 4 hour passage south east, arriving by 18:00Hrs. All 3 yachts were moored in Tribunj marina where the showers were voted the best of the cruise, and an evening meal ashore was enjoyed by all. A sudden thunderstorm hit at approx. 22:00Hrs and enforced a stay in the restaurant for the weather to ease. Distance logged 33.94nm.
Day 12 (Wednesday 13/09/2017)
Left Tribunj marina at 08:40Hrs - wind very light south easterly but bright and dry skies. Motor sailed to the entrance to Sibenik port entrance where the fleet assembled for the motor up to Skradin, the town where access to the KRKA falls is made. Moored alongside Skradin town (and marina!) by 12:00Hrs - lunch and the opportunity was taken to trip up to the KRKA falls by most crews - left Skradin by 17:00Hrs and motored in convoy to an anchorage off the lake below Skradin - Uvala Beretusa. Distance logged 21.9nm.
Day 13 (Thursday 14/09/2017)
An early start to get out of the Krka river and Sibenik harbour for some sailing! Weighed anchor at 07:00Hrs and motored to Sibenik harbour entrance - breakfast on the move. By 09:00Hrs we were outside Sibenik harbour and the wind was 5Kts South Easterly - just where we wanted to go - lunch at Primosten and towards Drvenik Mali. Full sail up and the wind strengthened to 11Kts, peaking at 16Kts for a cracking sail to Primosten beach where we anchored and swam before lunch at 11:30Hrs.
Weighed anchor at 14:00Hrs and set off in 15Kts of SE wind tacking down towards Drvenik Mali. By 16:30Hrs the wind was right on the nose and Katarina had diverted to Rogoznica on the mainland for her overnight stop. Dorko and Palmizana continued to Drvenik Mali - anchoring either side of the small island - arriving just before dusk at 19:00Hrs. Distance logged 46.02nm.
Day 14 (Friday 12/09/2017)
A gentle bimble back to Trogir for today. Wind SE 6Kts so a leisurely breakfast and up anchor at 10:00Hrs with an hour’s motoring instruction for two willing crew (!) before full sail set to round Drvenik Mali and anchor off the north coast for lunch and awaiting Katarina’s arrival from the mainland. Dorko went for a sail along the south coast of OTOK SOLTA before returning to Trogirski Kanal.
After lunch and more swimming, Palmizana and Katarina weighed anchors at approx. 14:30Hrs and motor sailed the last 6nm to Trogir marina where the Dalmatia Charter staff were on hand to assist in refuelling and docking by 16:00Hrs. Distance logged 15.3nm.
An all-crew meal was booked and attended by the freshly showered crews (at JAMBOS of course!) where much food and drink was consumed and stories told of our adventures - several crew were staying on in Croatia and all spent the night on their respective yachts before vacating them at the required hour of 09:00Hrs on the Saturday.